How the LGBTQIA+ community has shown up in the fashion industry: past, present and hopes for the future
Queer identity and fashion have been beautifully intertwined for generations. Queerness like fashion trends and style can never be just this one monolithic, unmoving, thing. The depths and dimensions that exist within the intricate web of fashion and queer identity have gone from subtle expression to their current journey toward mainstream. To better understand the importance of authentic representations of queerness in fashion and media there needs to be an understanding of the functionality of subcultures and their role in pushing fashion boundaries.
In terms of subculture identification, style is everything. Fashion is currency. Upon making a first impression, one of the first things people notice, consciously or subconsciously is your attire. What it says about you, what message you are trying to convey. When thinking of goth groups, the imagery that prevails is dark eye makeup, dark clothing, maybe an edgy hairstyle. When thinking of “hippies”, our mind wanders to tie dye, peace signs, maybe some cut up clothing and vibrant colors. But where does your mind subconsciously go when thinking of the LGBTQIA+ community? And don’t say rainbow clothing. LGBTQIA+ fashion goes far beyond throwing a pride flag on a t-shirt. The ideals of queer fashion are to dress for your body type and what feels right to you rather than binary gender identification. This idea is dominating the luxury fashion sphere and is trickling its way down to everyday fashion. This, obviously, has not always been the case. So how did we get to a place where queer fashion is making its way to the mainstream?
Self expression cannot be silenced no matter how loud the opposition. Prior to its current stance in contemporary fashion, using fashion or any other vehicle to express sexual identity was a taboo. Different periods called for different methods of expression. One of the first documented was by Oscar Wilde in 1982. Oscar and the green carnation attached to his lapel caused quite the stir and called to question the interpretation of such an adornment. Sparking a conversation as to the meaning behind it, as well as, calling to question masculine and feminine attire. Similarly, earrings became the green carnation of the 90’s. An earring on the right ear for men signaling your sexual preferences. These subtleties and symbolic pieces were more prevalent when queer style was less acceptable.There are countless pioneers that pushed the boundaries and paved the way for where fashion and queerness exist now. Their efforts along with changing societal values have catapulted our fashion from the closet to the runways.
Many luxury brands have taken the queer fashion theory and really ran with it. People are feeling increasingly claustrophobic by the boxes of gender assigned clothing and it shows. The more progressive brands have leaned into the idea of dressing for your body type and personality rather than the gender normative materials and silhouettes assigned to them. The parallels between the expansion and growth of the queer community along with the experimentation in the fashion industry are undeniable. Fashion today is looking for disruption and for this they turn to subcultures for inspiration. Some brands such as Peterdo and Willy Chavarria are really making strides in transforming gender neutral silhouettes into ones that are still interesting and alluring rather than just loose fitting. For designers like this between their “menswear” and “womenswear” collections I can hardly tell the difference and I’m here for it!
For too long there has been a hyperfixation with “men’s” vs “women’s” items. We are bombarded with asinine discussions surrounding what you would let your kids wear, what toys you’ll let them play with, etc. rather than allowing children the space to grow free of such judgment.
Fashion and style have been so deeply rooted in the expression of queerness that it is hard to determine where one starts and the other ends. The intersectionality of our identities creates a vast area for self expression and fashion is, has been, and will continue to be the best vehicle for showcasing our ever changing identity.
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